A final day in Sweden

Note to self – avoid Coastal Areas of Sweden during month of July. In all my time I’ve never seen so many motor homes and caravans. I was going to ride up the coast toward Gotenberg, but by the time I reached Varburg, it was a no more of this! The bike trails I followed, for the most part were alongside busy roads or on them. And, whenever there was a beach, it was crowded with shapes of alsorts.

Main bike trail

Varburg Castle was best seen from a distance as, close up, it was surrounded with booths, games for kids etc.

Varburg Castle

So I’ve decided to catch the ferry to Denmark and see if it’s any better there. But on the plus side the weather was sunny, warm without much wind. From talking to locals, the summer so far has been bad, with wind, cold temperatures and rain so I’ve been quite lucky.

 

I’m knackered but have a new fav city

It was going to be a reasonable distance day. It was a calm foggy morning as I left Atvesta.

Happy Cows

Happy Cows

I think the highest I reached in crossing Sweden was 210 metres above sea level and today it felt like over half of my day was following converted railways like this, nice and flat.

trail

Which was fine, just like the weather, except that I reached my intended destination by 2pm, so, being not too smart, I pushed on toward the coast and ended up doing 160 kms ( or about 40ks more than I’d recommend.

however ther’s always a light at the end of the tunnel as I discovered my new favourite city – Halmstad.

Halmstad

Maybe I get a photo or two tomorrow, but there’s about 30 rowers from here coming to the World Masters in New Zealand next year. Yes I managed to find the local boat club.

Along the Way

Going slow and on country roads affords the opportunity to find pleasant surprises like this seemingly nondescript bank just outside of Gemla.

X

I noticed a small sign so stopped to check it out. Turned out to be a early or late Bronze Age burial chamber surrounded by a cairn of stones. Originally it was 11 metres in length and about 7 metres high but it was damaged when they broadened the highway a few centuries later. Below is the burial chamber (at least what is left of it). I’ve highlighted it for more easy viewing.

Burial chamber

Burial chamber

Apparently there’s some 90 of these around here and I often wondered whether the piles of stones as I rode along were from a farmer clearing a field or cairns.

Another pleasure is the bountiful supply of raspberries beside the road.

Sweden

There’s interesting difference between the countryside and city. On the whole I find modern Swedish towns rather stark in architecture. Below is the town of Alvesta on a Monday afternoon.

Alvesta

While the country has a more pleasant architecture, below is an old country bridge beside a mill.

Just another day

The middle bit of southern Sweden is flat and boring. It must be where IKEA design their furniture. However a giant or troll spent time wiggling their toes here as the road was a roller coaster of short ups and downs. There was the occasional visual relief from the pine trees.

Farm house

I even stopped for the ritual drying of the tent.

Tent drying

Although this is still a more comfortable place to dry the tent out 🙂

I know that summers are short up here in Scandinavia, but it felt like autumn had arrived today what with the cool wind and grey skies. The feeling was further emphasised by the deserted streets of Vaxjo on a Sunday afternoon.

Vaxjo

Kalmar

So it’s goodbye to islands, at least for awhile. I would have liked to bike the bridge from Ă–land – it is one of the longest in Europe at 6 km, but bikes ain’t allowed and so I had to take the bike ferry to Kalmar.

Somewhere I read that Kalmar is Swedens favourite vacation place. Last time I was here I won’t have agreed, but that was probably my mood at the time. The 17th century town is quite lovely. Check out the Cathedral – not your normal looking one.

Kalmar Cathedral

On a slightly different and smaller scale, there was a couple of kittens looking out at the big wide world from the safety of their den.

The rest of the day ended up being a bit of a long one as I experienced miles upon miles of forest so just kept going.

Of course, having just pitched my tent. I expect it to start raining!

I am curious

I’m truely intrigued as to why, like lemmings, Swedes go en mass to Ă–land and Gotland so they can pack themselves into caravan puarks like sardines, then visit the same “attractions” en mass, whike ignoring much of the countryside around. The main road on Ă–land was a long traffic queue yet I was cycling empty roads a short distance away.

Ă–land

On the side road, one has the chance to meet with fellow slow travellers,

Ă–land

And discover ancient history like this pile of rocks which could be

  1. A pile of rocks
  2. Where I lost the key to my bicycle lock
  3. A convenient rest stop

Ă–land

The answer is of course – some of the above (I found my key) but also it’s a Bronze Age Burial Mound circa 1000-1800bc. All I can say is they must have hated the guy to have piled some many rocks on him.

I almost met the Adams family, at least, I think this was their summer house.

Ă–land

 

Ă–land – we all make mistakes

One of the things Ă–land is famous for, is its limestone, and, for a while,it seemed that the north west coast was a discarded quarry, ironically quite a scenic cycle ride that was interspersed with shaded wooded areas.

There was even a camel farm along the way to entertain the kids.

Ă–land

However all good things must come to an end. Having spent the day in calm forests and with seas views, I decided to head toward Borgholm where there were at least 5 campgrounds. After all Borgholm touts its Baroque (ruined) Castle as must see and the King and Queen are in town for some event today.

Well, this is what 300 kroner (NZ $51) buys you at a campground here. A patch of grass next to the main road, oh, and it’s started to rain and the camp wifi doen’t work…. And you pay extra for a shower.

Ă–land

At least I get to share this with enough motor homes to solve Auckland’s housing crisis for years to come.

Gotland – a tropical coral reef

Okay so, here is a short archeological history of Gotland. Way back in the Silurian period, which by my reckoning is about 400 million year ago, this area was a tropical coral reef, but without Surfers Paradise near by. Then along came a big winter chill called the ice age which depressed whatever land there was and so, just over 10,000 years ago, Gotland didn’t exist – in that it was under water. As the ice melted, the land rose up, in fact it still is at the rate of 1 metre per century, although it’s slowing down.

Anyway, Gotland appeared rising like Venus from the sea. The sea wasn’t too happy at that and eroded a fair bit of land but left sea stacks along the coast and in land.

Sea pillars
Remember this castle in Ă…land?

Well it used to an island surround by water in the 15th century. Not now as the land keeps rising.

Now back to the walled city.

Visby

Circling Gotland

I’m not one for churches, or temples etc, but Gotland has so many you can’t avoid going into some of them. This was my church of choice, somewhere in the north of the island.

Church

It was the inside rather than the outside that I liked as it had the original , faded, medieval wall decorations.

Inside church

As ever the wind was hovering around 35 km so I was either gleefully freewheeling or grinding slowly along.

tomorrow evening I’m going back to the mainland as Gotland at the peak of the tourist season is not really my cup of tea.

Keeping the options open

With the weather not looking too good. I thought I might catch a train south to Nynashamn for the ferry, and also decided to go early and thus have time to cycle if I changed my mind. It turned out that was just as well.

First up, when I got to the Central Station, I was kindly informed by the first rude Scandinavian (I’d met so far on this trip) that bikes weren’t allowed in the Central Station – her tone and words were slightly different. Oh, and I then discovered that buses had replaced the train for much of the journey.

However in the world of ying and yang, another person saw that I was a somewhat perplexed individual trying to figure my way south out of the city and rode with me for 5k just to see me through the tangle of streets. So I ended up cycling to the coast with only a few showers on the way.

This dog has its own personal chauffeur

This dog has its own personal chauffeur

Unlike the ferry ride from Ă…land, the ferry to Gotland had plenty of cyclists, my favourite being the one above.

Visby was quite crowded with holiday makers, yet, for some reason, they all seemed to disappear shortly after 6:30 as if there was a curfew that I didn’t know about.

Visby

Sunny Swedish Summer Sunday Stockholm

Okay, so I felt like getting at least 5 “S” words in the title of this post. Have 5 beers then say that line 5 times. Anyway, early morning is the time to be in Gamla Stan.

Gamla stan

Within a couple of hours of these photos, you really couldn’t move with any freedom agmonst the tourists who gawked at everything and everywhere – except where they were walking, such is life.

So I disappeared off to Kungliga DjurgĂĄrden, visiting the Stockholn Rowing Club (of course) and the quiet of wooded trails.

Kungliga DjurgĂĄrde

I even surprised a deer nibbling on some grass beside one of the trails. Being a true recluse, he trotted away before I could get my camera out. I wonder how many photos have been taken in Stockholm today on iPhones, Samsungs, etc, etc?

Stockholm

Not surprisingly, I was somewhat zombied out after the ‘night’ on the boat. At 6:30 in the morning the place was deserted, I cycled thru the Main Street in Gammla Stan with not a sole around. Of course 6 hours later was a different story and you couldn’t move.

I staying on one of those funky little old coastal steamers. When? Cos they’re about the cheapest thing, apart from a park bench and, well, kinda fun.

Not a bad view

Not a bad view from the boat.

You’ll notice that the sky doesn’t have that clear Swedish blue, let’s just say the rain and lighting put on a good show in the afternoon.

 

No sleep on the Party Boat

After a very calm and tranquil wait for the 00:45 ferry, watching the sunset for the first time in over two weeks, any thoughts that I might sleep on the boat to Stockholm was dispelled as the sounds of the onboard night club preceded the boat – it was, after all Friday night.

Ferry from Langnas

I think that the boat was populated only by very drunk young Finns on a weekend cruise. As it turned out there was a very large tour group of Chinese who had sensibly gone to bed in their cabins and only appeared at breakfast.

image

As for me, without a cabin, well I did get maybe one or two hours of shuteye but, always seemed to get involved in unintelligible conversations with very drunk Finns that were conducted in half English, half Finnish, with some slurred Swedish thrown in for good measure. Hopefully none of them were going anywhere near a car for the next week.