Lillehammer, the very sound is of it is Norway- what with the Winter Olympics et al. So I had to go there and I did.
Do you realise there are 934 steps from the bottom of the ski jump to the top of it? -that is after you’ve climbed the hill. Oh well… Definitely worth it.
I watched kids, born after the turn of the century, fly down the hill landing 60+ metres down the hill without effort. Back in town I evaded 50 year olds who needed walking poles to get to the next shop and bargin.
Perhaps it was best I headed back to Kristiansand yesterday and to the Budget Hotel as today is decidedly a rain day, pretty much non stop all day. The Budget Hotel is one of the more unique places I’ve stayed. It sits literally in the middle of a car park next to the ferry terminal and train station. Not pretty but basic. This is the view from my window.
But, it’s fine and I’d stay here again. So with not much to do, except get wet, I wandered around the centre which didn’t take too long and found a kid’s dream shop.
This is less than a ¼ of the shop.
Apparently it’s been a wetter summer than normal. But on whole I’ve been lucky with the weather. While it has rained a fair amount, either through luck, planning or being prepared, I haven’t suffered from rain that much. The wind though has been a bit of a bastard at times.
Once again, it was time to decide which way to do – continue onto the Lofoten Islands or head south thru Finland. Having spent the last 2 plus weeks in the fjords I was both reluctant to leave them but also ready. Yet Finland promised boring long rides which could be too much of a change. Funnily enough it was the check out girl at a supermarket who help make the decision. She asked where I was going next and when I responded Finland, her response was “oh, so you really like mosquitos”. So I’m going to go thru Finland – by bus and train to Turku or Helsinki on the south coast then island hopping.
By the way, spent the day tramping in the ranges above Tromso today as a change of pace.
Well, today was going to be either great or grating. The winds were still stronger on the south (the route mostly east) and there was rain looming. But there there was also a couple of relaxing ferry rides……
Turned out to be a great day despite the early rain, the views, as ever magnificent.
The final run into Tromso was a breeze, I was free wheeling on the flats – I just felt sorry for those going the other way – not really.
So after 540 kilometres of riding from NordKapp, I’ve completed a circle of the top of Norway.
Now you’d expect the highlights to be the views, fjords, etc etc of Norway but today it was first, finishing the days ride (‘cos I was knackered) and secondly a Thai Penang Curry with Reindeer Meat – spicy and with no pasta, no cream no potatoes.
Last night I camped north of Burfjord and about 2-3 kilometres away along the fjord, the local camping ground was having their annual music festival, starting at 10pm and going to 3am. Hearing Proud Mary sung with a heavily Norwegian accent at 2 in the morning will have to be one of my more humorous moments.
Tomorrow I cycle to Tromso.
Earlier today I met and chatted awhile with a Brazilian girl who had lived in Queenstown but was now in Chamonix, France and was on her way to Nordkapp by bicycle. In conversation, I casually said I would like some snow – not as in a snowfall but along side the road to cool off my legs. She mentioned I would get that on the next climb.
And so the day turned out to be short in distance, but long in cycling time as I toiled up toward the snow.
And that wasn’t even the top. However the decent was thrilling!
It was much too hot for the young guy holding the stop sign at some road construction, after all the temperature was nudging 17 degrees C and the sun was about to poke thru the clouds. He had recently returned from Salt Lake City. He had gone there after meeting some fellow Norwegians and Americans on the Internet. No, Not what you’re thinking, he moderated an online game and all of them often played against each other so they decided to get together in Utah and actually meet in person.
Last night I stayed in an AirBnB along with two effervescent Israelis who had shops in Alta and Tromso selling Dead Sea Salts. But the important thing was they had real coffee from Israel. The first decent coffee I’d had since New Zealand. There are two things Norway could do to improve its standing in the world (1) learn to make coffee, it should not come from a machine with blinking lights and (2) be less expensive.
Actually, while on the subject of Norway, although I’ve seen quite a few reindeer, I have decided that the Norwegian national mascot/animal should be the mole as they are tunnelling everywhere. Today I passed quite a few on my way from Alta. I think the purpose of these tunnels to ensure drivers have some darkness during summer, and are not distracted by the stunning scenery. However the government has been very thoughtful of bicyclists as we are not allowed in many of them and are required to cycle around the hills and mountains while admiring the views.
To end the day I dutifully followed Will’s (Physio back home) instructions to ice my knees, well, it wasn’t ice but it was crystal clear and icy cold…
Had a rather good breakfast at the Smarthotel – I am not sure why it is named a Smart hotel, possibly it had technology so advanced I couldn’t operate the coffee machine. Anyway it was nice and comfortable. I then took the fast ferry 2 hours south to Alta, leaving a sunny Hammerfest
for a grey wet Alta
However the journey was, as ever, a visual feast thru the Fjords and the skies cleared up in Alta where I did the tourist thing, visited the Museum with its World Heritage Rock Art, as well as the Cathedral, which, to say the least, is unique in design and was closed, thus relieving me of the obligation to go inside.
Okay so the sky wasn’t really that colour. Opposite the Cathedral at the Scandic Hotel was yet another coach loading up with folks about to tame the journey up north to see the midnight sun at NordKapp
Well we’re now passed north into the Arctic Circle for the days of 24 hour sunlight – at least I think so but the grey cloud covers the sun in a dance of seven veils. However this is a very chaste dance and we haven’t got past the 3rd or 4th veil.
Bodo was a very grey town today, so I feel the need to add some colour.
On the plus side it looks as if the remaining veils are coming off as we head to the Lofoten Isles…..
Apparently the Catheral is one of the must see places in Tronheim. Lucky it was closed to the general public thus relieving me of the onerous tourist obligation of doing the Catheral, churches and Musem thing, and so freeing up time for cafes, et al.
However even Cafes seemed to be otherwise occupied
And media were everywhere
Continue Reading →
Now onboard the Ms Lofoten, a 62 year old coastal boat with my bike safely stowed -although it is taking the notion of a shipboard romance a bit too far by cuddling up with another bicycle.
We are cruising thru the Norwegian Fjords. Today we went up the Geiranger fjord – and are now heading back toward Ålesund then continuing on up north.
Henrik Ibsen’s mother-in-law, Magdalene Thoresen discribed the fjord as Continue Reading →
There are four rather big Cruise ships in town today, yesterday there where only two. Assuming each one carries about 3000 passengers, not to mention the crews, that’s an extra 12,000 people in the city today.
So I’ve found that the travel guides I used to use are actually very helpful – if they highlight something – go elsewhere. The queue for the Funicular was about 2 hours, yet under 150 metres away there wasn’t a tourist to be seen.
Last time I was here with Alex the gondola up Mt Ulriken was out of service, so we climbed up – more like stumbled and scrambled up. This time it was out due to wind – to be fair they were willing to let me go out but I might then have to wait a sone hours before getting down again. I declined the opportunity. So, this is what it looked like last time…
And this is what it looks like today…. At least the wind has gone.
This afternoon I hop aboard the Ms Lofoten to cruise on up thru the fjords to Honningsvag and Nordkapp where the hard work begins.
For some reason I thought there was rain (or snow, sleet etc) for 300 days of the year in Bergen. Indeed the website weather-and-climate.com notes that the rainy season starts in January and goes thru December. But I was wrong, it only rains on 233 days of the year and this month it normally rains on 2 out of 3 days. I can now verify that this is true as today it is raining and tomorrow it is meant to rain, but, yesterday was beautifully sunny. The good news is I get to fully test my rain jacket, the bad news is I get to test my rain jacket.
So I’ll just remember what it was like yesterday…
Oslo on an early cold grey Sunday morning is rather pleasant ( well apart from the cold and grey bit). I have it all to myself without the heaving crowds of yesterday. But I think I may need to rethink the thinking that my long gloves will be warm enough when I get to the really cold parts of Norway.
the bike is put together and I’ve wobbled my way around town several gears lower than before and am now waiting for the train to Bergen where it is even colder and, you guessed it – somewhat damp….
