Gotland – a tropical coral reef

Okay so, here is a short archeological history of Gotland. Way back in the Silurian period, which by my reckoning is about 400 million year ago, this area was a tropical coral reef, but without Surfers Paradise near by. Then along came a big winter chill called the ice age which depressed whatever land there was and so, just over 10,000 years ago, Gotland didn’t exist – in that it was under water. As the ice melted, the land rose up, in fact it still is at the rate of 1 metre per century, although it’s slowing down.

Anyway, Gotland appeared rising like Venus from the sea. The sea wasn’t too happy at that and eroded a fair bit of land but left sea stacks along the coast and in land.

Sea pillars
Remember this castle in Åland?

Well it used to an island surround by water in the 15th century. Not now as the land keeps rising.

Now back to the walled city.

Visby

Circling Gotland

I’m not one for churches, or temples etc, but Gotland has so many you can’t avoid going into some of them. This was my church of choice, somewhere in the north of the island.

Church

It was the inside rather than the outside that I liked as it had the original , faded, medieval wall decorations.

Inside church

As ever the wind was hovering around 35 km so I was either gleefully freewheeling or grinding slowly along.

tomorrow evening I’m going back to the mainland as Gotland at the peak of the tourist season is not really my cup of tea.

Keeping the options open

With the weather not looking too good. I thought I might catch a train south to Nynashamn for the ferry, and also decided to go early and thus have time to cycle if I changed my mind. It turned out that was just as well.

First up, when I got to the Central Station, I was kindly informed by the first rude Scandinavian (I’d met so far on this trip) that bikes weren’t allowed in the Central Station – her tone and words were slightly different. Oh, and I then discovered that buses had replaced the train for much of the journey.

However in the world of ying and yang, another person saw that I was a somewhat perplexed individual trying to figure my way south out of the city and rode with me for 5k just to see me through the tangle of streets. So I ended up cycling to the coast with only a few showers on the way.

This dog has its own personal chauffeur

This dog has its own personal chauffeur

Unlike the ferry ride from Åland, the ferry to Gotland had plenty of cyclists, my favourite being the one above.

Visby was quite crowded with holiday makers, yet, for some reason, they all seemed to disappear shortly after 6:30 as if there was a curfew that I didn’t know about.

Visby

Sunny Swedish Summer Sunday Stockholm

Okay, so I felt like getting at least 5 “S” words in the title of this post. Have 5 beers then say that line 5 times. Anyway, early morning is the time to be in Gamla Stan.

Gamla stan

Within a couple of hours of these photos, you really couldn’t move with any freedom agmonst the tourists who gawked at everything and everywhere – except where they were walking, such is life.

So I disappeared off to Kungliga Djurgården, visiting the Stockholn Rowing Club (of course) and the quiet of wooded trails.

Kungliga Djurgårde

I even surprised a deer nibbling on some grass beside one of the trails. Being a true recluse, he trotted away before I could get my camera out. I wonder how many photos have been taken in Stockholm today on iPhones, Samsungs, etc, etc?

Stockholm

Not surprisingly, I was somewhat zombied out after the ‘night’ on the boat. At 6:30 in the morning the place was deserted, I cycled thru the Main Street in Gammla Stan with not a sole around. Of course 6 hours later was a different story and you couldn’t move.

I staying on one of those funky little old coastal steamers. When? Cos they’re about the cheapest thing, apart from a park bench and, well, kinda fun.

Not a bad view

Not a bad view from the boat.

You’ll notice that the sky doesn’t have that clear Swedish blue, let’s just say the rain and lighting put on a good show in the afternoon.

 

No sleep on the Party Boat

After a very calm and tranquil wait for the 00:45 ferry, watching the sunset for the first time in over two weeks, any thoughts that I might sleep on the boat to Stockholm was dispelled as the sounds of the onboard night club preceded the boat – it was, after all Friday night.

Ferry from Langnas

I think that the boat was populated only by very drunk young Finns on a weekend cruise. As it turned out there was a very large tour group of Chinese who had sensibly gone to bed in their cabins and only appeared at breakfast.

image

As for me, without a cabin, well I did get maybe one or two hours of shuteye but, always seemed to get involved in unintelligible conversations with very drunk Finns that were conducted in half English, half Finnish, with some slurred Swedish thrown in for good measure. Hopefully none of them were going anywhere near a car for the next week.

Slow Travel

The wind has quietened to a zephyr, probably because it knows I’m getting the 00:45 boat to Stockholm. It’s a beautiful warm late afternoon. I’m sitting in a wood typing this with just the sound of seagulls. For the last three days I’ve been doing the cycling version of slow food. Not travelling far but stopping frequently and sampling the local fair, be it museums, food and attractions or whatever.

My lunch spot

My lunch spot

There was a delightful little museum displaying the paintings of a artists colony from the early to mid 1900s – it reminded me of the paintings in Mogs flat!

Art

Art Colony Museum

Then I spend the better part of 2 hours at a small café run called Lumparby Ollas by Peter. By my reckoning it was out of the way, by his reckoning it was close to town, of course he had a car. It was only open in the summer and in the winter, he runs his sled dogs as a hobby. Apparently when the sea freezes, you can get to to the Finnish mainland in about 8 hours by dog sled.

Lumparby Ollas Cafe

Lumparby Ollas Cafe

Peter's Cafe

The harbour where I catch the boat is Långnas. It’s about 30 kilometres from Mariehamn and only used because of Alcohol. To explain, the EU banned duty free between member countries. This slashed the revenue that the ferry companies made. But because Åland is a self governing body it was declared an exception so all ferries stop there and people travelling between Sweden and Finland or Estonia can load up on Booze.

The Wind In Åland

Today’s feature was the Wind – check out the reeds in the photo above. I knew that today would be a hard slog so adjusted my plans according and rode the byways rather than the highways. This led to some wonderful surprises just like the Russian fort yesterday. First up was this Castle that even had a King imprisioned in it like all the best castles.

Kastelholm

It’s Kastleholm, a Swedish Castle built in the 14th century. Yesterday it was the Russians, today now the Swedish, such is the history of the region.

Finally I cycled back to Mariehamn where I could hide from the wind in cafes.

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My teachers at School didn’t tell everything

Not content with the 9 hour coach ride and a 14 hour train ride, I tacked on a 5½ hour ferry ride to get to the Åland archipelago that runs between Sweden and Finland.

Such a change, it is flat, relatively speaking and has forests! I also did my bit of remedial learning. I’d always been taught that the Crimean War took place in, as you might think, in Crimea. But I’m camped next to the ruins of a Russian fort that was the scene of a major battle and where the first ever Victoria Cross was awarded – along with two other ones a few months later.

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Basically Russians had built the insides of the fort but were rather tardy in putting up the outer defences. Unsportingly the Brits and French bombarded the place and captured it. But the Russians got their own back by bombarding the fort after the French had taken it and scoring a direct hit on the munitions magazine – could be they had some inside knowledge of the place. My teachers at school have some explaining to do.

The Techie Stuff of Touring

Being of a Geeky background, I feel the urge to comment on things techie. Long gone are the days when bike touring was accompanied with paper (maps, directions et al), rolls of film, phone cards and the weather forecast was about what you could see on the horizon or catch on the 6pm news bulletin in a language you couldn’t understand.

3 years ago I used my iPad, iPhone and digital camera to replace the lot, all powered by the sun, bike hub Dynamo and the occasional power outlet. Hey, I was even able to use TeamViewer to fix a laptop back home in NZ from a campground in Denmark.

Today I still use the same tech, although with some hundred upgrades or improvements – at least that is what it feels like. The key difference I’ve noticed this time is connectivity. So far in Norway and Finland I’ve rarely been out of a cellular signal and every boat, train and bus has had free wifi, as well as most of the town centres and malls.

When I can get a strong cellular signal in a deep fjord surrounded by mountains 100 kilometres from the nearest town, it makes the claims by the telcos back in New Zealand such as “we cover 99% of where New Zealanders live” rather shallow.

I’ve now swapped out my NZ sim for a local Norwegian one that for $50 that gives me 3 gigabytes of data plus unlimited calling and messaging throughout Scandinavia for a month. I did this after continuing frustration with getting roaming to work with my Spark number and then too many Call Failed messages. By the way Spark, it’s kind of difficult to be on hold for 2 hours when you’re on the other side of the world and your phone doesn’t work. Thank goodness for Twitter, it seems to get more attention.

On a somewhat different vein, my go to app this time around has been Google Translate, it works wonderfully both on and off line. I’ve even had a conversation with a Russian lady who spoke as much English as I speak Russian – nil. It’s still a bit weird taking turns in talking to my iPhone and then reading the translation, but, hey it works. It’s also saved me from regrettable errors at the super market like the time I once bought anchovies and vinegar instead of herrings and red wine.

Written and posted from the middle of the Baltic using the free wifi on board the ferry.

Heading south by ways other than a bike

It is not often one gets the chance to have a 9 hour coach ride immediately followed by a 14 hour train journey and it be enjoyable! The day started at 6am, although the coach wasn’t scheduled to leave Tromsø till 7:30, after all, I needed my coffee and finding good coffee in Norway is problematic.

Bus

I would show a photo or two of the lakes and woods of Finland but we had rain, hail and thunder the entire 600 kilometres to Rovaniemi so there was not much to see really apart from rain-deer and the odd moose.

At Rovaniemi, after a ¾ hour break, I managed to get the sleeper to Turku in south west Finland that had a lovely old dinning car to compliment the modern sleepy carriages.

All in all a much better option than fighting the wind, rain, hills and mosquitoes on a bike. By the way, didn’t see a single cycle tourist on the way – except the two who also rode the coach south.

As for the weather, we’ve reached Oulu at the top of the Baltic and it still raining

Oulu

Hopefully tomorrow will be different.

Decision Time Again

Once again, it was time to decide which way to do – continue onto the Lofoten Islands or head south thru Finland. Having spent the last 2 plus weeks in the fjords I was both reluctant to leave them but also ready. Yet Finland promised boring long rides which could be too much of a change. Funnily enough it was the check out girl at a supermarket who help make the decision. She asked where I was going next and when I responded Finland, her response was “oh, so you really like mosquitos”. So I’m going to go thru Finland – by bus and train to Turku or Helsinki on the south coast then island hopping.

By the way, spent the day tramping in the ranges above Tromso today as a change of pace.

Above Tromso

Last Leg to Tromso

Well, today was going to be either great or grating. The winds were still stronger on the south (the route mostly east) and there was rain looming. But there there was also a couple of relaxing ferry rides……

Ferry Terminal

Turned out to be a great day despite the early rain, the views, as ever magnificent.

4 years later

The final run into Tromso was a breeze, I was free wheeling on the flats – I just felt sorry for those going the other way – not really.

So after 540 kilometres of riding from NordKapp, I’ve completed a circle of the top of Norway.

Two Unusal Highlights

Now you’d expect the highlights to be the views, fjords, etc etc of Norway but today it was first, finishing the days ride (‘cos I was knackered) and secondly a Thai Penang Curry with Reindeer Meat – spicy and with no pasta, no cream no potatoes.

Hamnnes

Last night I camped north of Burfjord and about 2-3 kilometres away along the fjord, the local camping ground was having their annual music festival, starting at 10pm and going to 3am. Hearing Proud Mary sung with a heavily Norwegian accent at 2 in the morning will have to be one of my more humorous moments.

Olderdalen

Tomorrow I cycle to Tromso.

Olderdalen

Be careful what you ask for

Earlier today I met and chatted awhile with a Brazilian girl who had lived in Queenstown but was now in Chamonix, France and was on her way to Nordkapp by bicycle. In conversation, I casually said I would like some snow – not as in a snowfall but along side the road to cool off my legs. She mentioned I would get that on the next climb.

And so the day turned out to be short in distance, but long in cycling time as I toiled up toward the snow.

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And that wasn’t even the top. However the decent was thrilling!